Moonwatch 3861

This is the modern Speedmaster Professional with an acrylic front and a closed steel back. Introduced with the 2021 Moonwatch generation, it is a 42 mm steel watch with a hand-wound stopwatch movement, three small counters and no date. Its outline remains close to earlier Professionals, including the extra width on the right that protects the winding crown and two pushers.

Omega calls the raised, curved front cover Hesalite. It is acrylic, the material used on the traditional Moonwatch, rather than the harder sapphire fitted to the alternative version. It can scratch, but minor surface marks can often be polished out; the material choice has consequences beyond resemblance to an older watch.

The face includes details recovered from early Speedmasters. The minute track sits a little lower than the central area, creating what collectors call a step dial. On the black aluminium timing ring, a small dot sits above the number ninety. That “dot over ninety” is an intentional part of this new watch's design. It is not an old bezel that has survived from the 1960s.

Behind the closed back, calibre 3861 brings substantial changes. It is still wound through the crown and still drives a conventional stopwatch display, but now uses Omega's Co-Axial escapement and meets Master Chronometer requirements. Those tests cover the complete watch's performance, including its behaviour around strong magnetic fields. This is modern equipment inside a deliberately familiar shape.

A seahorse emblem occupies the steel back, where the alternative sapphire version provides a view of the same movement.