SUB 200T Professional Iconic

The SUB 200T is a dive watch made smaller. Introduced in 2024, it puts DOXA's rounded steel case, broad minute hand and rotating timing ring into a watch 39 millimeters across. Those features belong together: underwater, a diver needs to see how much time has passed. The orange face is part of that history too. DOXA calls this color Professional.

The company introduced its orange SUB 300 in 1967. In DOXA's account of its development, Urs Eschle and a team working with diver Claude Wesly tested visibility in Lake Neuchâtel during the preceding years. They settled on orange. It was a choice made for an instrument that had to be read underwater, well before the color became a familiar way to recognize the brand.

The hands have different proportions. The minute hand is much broader than the hour hand, with a thick black outline enclosing its luminous center. It reaches toward the minute markings around the edge of the face. The rotating ring, or bezel, supplies an elapsed-time scale to read against that hand. Minutes receive more space and more contrast than the ordinary hour.

The SUB 200T reduces the size of that familiar design. Its case measures 41.5 millimeters from end to end, only a little more than its width. An automatic mechanical movement winds itself as the watch is worn. The steel bracelet has rows of small, rounded center links—the reason for the name “beads of rice”—between broader outer links.

The Iconic designation refers to the dial finish, not a different model's history. Its orange looks flat and even in the product photographs. DOXA's alternative Sunray finish reflects light in bands radiating from the center. Around this plain orange face, the steel is more elaborate: a broad curved case, densely engraved timing ring and closely packed bracelet links. Shrinking the case has not made the watch look delicate.